Rotisserie

Planning a frame off restoration I had to figure out a way to lift the body off of the chassis.

Through Team Chevelle I stumbled on Micheal Pell 's Auto rotisserie. It looked very handy, so I started to

make one of my own. Thanks to Michael it really turned out to be one of the handiest tools I ever made.

Imagine blasting the bottom of your car above your head and down on your knees?

I could do it standing up, straight ahead.

Some explanation.

The rotisserie comprises 2 separate frames, each to be bolted to the body. The body of a coupe is strong

enough to hang by these 2 frames. Each frame has a pivot point attached in order to hook it to a chain hoist, which makes it possible to rotate the body around its axis or move it up or down.

Michael's version uses a floor stand so it can be moved about.

I did not have enough room for this.

I did not want to put too much torque on the mounting points so I constructed each frame to use 4 points of support. The front frame uses 2 body mount holes and 2 fender holes in the firewall, the rear frame

uses 4 body mount points. The right photo shows only one half.

In order to work safely under the body while it is of the chassis I made guidance holes on the outer 2 corners of each frame. Sliding rectangular poles through and securing them with a bolt under

the hole will make certain the whole construction stands safely on the ground.

You can work in the body without tilting.

For making the frames I used square tubing, 40*40*3 mm. Each frame used up some 5 meter of tubing. Most of the joints have been welded to make the rig as rigid as possible.

The legs A in the front frame have been bent a little (sawing 3 sides, opening and welding them again), because the line of the body mount holes is not perpendicular to the vertical legs C.

Measurements in mm.

The arms that hold the pivot are bolted to the frame. I had to find the center of gravity first, clamping

the unit to the frame using rubber in between and lots C-clamps and pieces of wood to avoid sliding

of the pivot unit when rotating the body. Afterwards I bolted to unit down to the frame. To

compensate for the weight of the clamps the unit must rise a 1/2 inch before drilling the

holes for the bolts. To compensate for a little tilting I added a piece of thick massive

iron on the right place. During body work, this place varies with actions taken.

To bolt the frames to the body, you will need to lift the body of the chassis first. On the rear I used the
holes in the support brackets in the trunk. I put a chain with a hose around through each hole.
For the front I made some hooks from flat iron (30*3 mm.) and connected chains to them too.
These chains in turn are connected to a horizontal support that hooks on to the hoist.
This way the force on the lifting points is straight upward and will not put strain on the body .
With the frame on the body I slid the poles through to be able to free the hoist.

Rotisserie Planning a frame off restoration I had to figure out a way to lift the body off of the chassis. Through Team Chevelle I stumbled on Micheal Pell 's Auto rotisserie. It looked very handy, so I started to make one of my own. Thanks to Michael it really turned out to be one of the handiest tools I ever made. Imagine blasting the bottom of your car above your head and down on your knees? I could do it standing up, straight ahead. Some explanation. The rotisserie comprises 2 separate frames, each to be bolted to the body. The body of a coupe is strong enough to hang by these 2 frames. Each frame has a pivot point attached in order to hook it to a chain hoist, which makes it possible to rotate the body around its axis or move it up or down. Michael's version uses a floor stand so it can be moved about. I did not have enough room for this. I did not want to put too much torque on the mounting points so I constructed each frame to use 4 points of support. The front frame uses 2 body mount holes and 2 fender holes in the firewall, the rear frame uses 4 body mount points. The right photo shows only one half. In order to work safely under the body while it is of the chassis I made guidance holes on the outer 2 corners of each frame. Sliding rectangular poles through and securing them with a bolt under the hole will make certain the whole construction stands safely on the ground. You can work in the body without tilting. For making the frames I used square tubing, 40403 mm. Each frame used up some 5 meter of tubing. Most of the joints have been welded to make the rig as rigid as possible. The legs A in the front frame have been bent a little (sawing 3 sides, opening and welding them again), because the line of the body mount holes is not perpendicular to the vertical legs C. Measurements in mm. The arms that hold the pivot are bolted to the frame. I had to find the center of gravity first, clamping the unit to the frame using rubber in between and lots C-clamps and pieces of wood to avoid sliding of the pivot unit when rotating the body. Afterwards I bolted to unit down to the frame. To compensate for the weight of the clamps the unit must rise a 1/2 inch before drilling the holes for the bolts. To compensate for a little tilting I added a piece of thick massive iron on the right place. During body work, this place varies with actions taken. To bolt the frames to the body, you will need to lift the body of the chassis first. On the rear I used the holes in the support brackets in the trunk. I put a chain with a hose around through each hole. For the front I made some hooks from flat iron (30*3 mm.) and connected chains to them too. These chains in turn are connected to a horizontal support that hooks on to the hoist. This way the force on the lifting points is straight upward and will not put strain on the body . With the frame on the body I slid the poles through to be able to free the hoist.